Far removed from the drunken bikini scene in Kuta, Ubud can be described as a magical, wonderful, cultural centre -- if you're generous about coping with the burgeoning chaos in the centre, and the spread of workshops along the main roads in and out of town.
Above all famous as a center of arts and crafts. Half (if not more) of the town and nearby villages seem to consist of artists' workshops and galleries, mostly retailing cheap reproductions for tourists. There are some remarkable architectural sights, artistic gems to be found, and a general feeling of wellbeing to be enjoyed thanks to the spirit, surroundings and climate.
While Ubud seems to outsiders like one small town, it is in fact 14 villages, each run by its own banjar (the land-owning married men's association; in effect the local government). It's clear that Ubud has been growing rapidly and some central parts are coping less well with the influx of tourists than in previous years (although the drop in visitors following 9/11 and the Kuta bombings slowed development). That said, most developments are sympathetic to the zeitgeist, if not designed specifically in the style of Balinese architecture. Growth is continuing due to the popularity of the Ubud area, but there are still terraced rice fields along the rivers and regular, quiet village life carries on relatively undisturbed just a stone's throw away. However, the encroachment of hotel rooms onto paddyfields, particularly near Monkey Forest and and along the Agung river is noticeable. Many hotels will promote themselves as being "in Ubud" when they are more likely to actually be located in one of the surrounding villages that make up the greater Ubud.Due to its location 600 meters above sea level Ubud enjoys somewhat cooler temperatures than the coast (bring a pullover for the evening), although the midday sun can still be scorching.
Reading:
Secrets of Bali, Fresh Light on the Morning of the World, Jonathan Copeland in consultation with Ni Wayan Murni, Gateway Books International, 2008.
Orientation
Orienting yourself in Ubud is fairly straightforward. The town sprawls around for several kilometers in all directions, wth all of the small villages within a 5km radius of the central market being loosely refered to as "Ubud." If you choose a reasonably central place to stay it's easy enough to walk about on foot. Central Ubud has three main streets, Jl. Raya Ubud (the "Main Road" of Ubud), Jl. Monkey Forest and Jl. Hanoman. At the intersection of Jl. Raya and Jl. Monkey Forest is the Ubud Market, the Ubud Palace and the main bemo stop. Jl. Monkey Forest, from the market, south to the Monkey Forest itself is the most built up in the area, and home to a wide array of accommodation, art galleries, cafes, restaurants and cafes, and essential services (schools, sports field, pharmacies, travel agents, etc). Jl. Hanoman, which runs parallel to Jl. Monkey Forest, is a bit quieter and makes for more pleasant walking. To the immediate west and northwest are the villages of Campuhan and Kedewatan, home to some of the most upmarket hotels in the area with views over the Agung River valley. Directly to the south, past Monkey Forest and still within a half hour walk of the central market is Padang Tegal, which then morphs into the southern villages of Nyuh Kuning, and Pengosek (about 3 km from central Ubud). Directly to the east is the village of Peliatan, and then Teges, home of the Goa Gajah elephant cave.
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